Talcott Estate & Meyer Lemon Preserves

Sometimes my job allows me to take sunny drives around California to meet with olive oil producers and visit their groves. I drove down a long gravel driveway to receive the warmest welcome to the Talcott Estate in Carneros. Jim handed me the keys to his mule to explore the property as he finished cooking lunch. Lefty chased alongside the tractor, only to dive back down a row of trees and disappear in the mustard blossoms.

I left with a tired dog and a bag full of meyer lemons from their gardens.  So I made lemon preserves. 

Meyer Lemon Preserves

Recipe adapted from Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc Recipe

for two medium mason jars/or about 4 small ones. 

• Meyer lemons
• About 2 to 3 cups of fresh lemon juice
• Kosher Salt
• California Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Whole peppercorns
• Whole juniper berries (optional)
• Bay leaves

In advance: Start by scrubbing the lemons to remove any dirt. Sanitize the jars and lids by a quick dip in a hot water bath, or 30 minutes on a baking sheet in the oven at 250 degrees. Allow the jars to cool completely before starting this. 

Juice the lemons. Prep the lemons for your jars. I had two small jars and one large. 

For the small jars, slices are the way to go. Slice the lemons and toss them in a bowl with a generous amount of salt. So much salt that each slice is coated. Add about a 1/4" of salt to the bottom of the jar to start. Then stack them in your jar, adding a couple peppercorns and bay leaves (and juniper berries if using). Really pack the lemons in tight. 

For the larger jars, start with about 1/2" of salt on the bottom of the jar. Quarter the lemons, but do not cut through, leave the bottom intact so they are still connected to the stem. Open up the lemon and pack with salt. Close it back up and repeat for as many lemons as you can fit in this jar. Add a few peppercorns and bay leaves. Pack it tight. 

After the lemons are in the jars, top the jars with lemon juice to fill almost to the top. Add a bit of olive oil on the surface so the jar is full. Seal close. 

Store for one month in a cool, dark spot like a pantry. Shake them up every few days. Refrigerate after opening - lasts one month in fridge, up to one year unopened. 

The finished product will be glossy, soft and fragrant. Cut up the peel for use with grains, salads or fish. The pulp is great with dressings or to flavor meats before roasting or grilling. 

-A

Rich Table's California Olive Oil + Douglas Fir Cookies

I work for the California Olive Oil Council.
I work with farmers, millers, chefs, and tasting experts. I host tasting events, visit groves, and certify extra virgin olive oil for the state of California. Every day I learn something new about olive oil; the way it's made, agricultural practices, the many factors that can ruin this very, very delicate fruit oil, how to properly taste it, the different olive varietals and their complex flavors...
The producers in this state are incredible. They are honest people, they don't take shortcuts in their production of olive oil.  The oils coming out of the state are true extra virgin quality, and they are wonderful, bitter, fruity, surprising.

To celebrate harvest season (Nov-Jan), we hosted an event at the restaurant Rich Table. The entire menu was inspired by and prepared with California extra virgin olive oil.

The pastry chef created a special spin off of a shortbread cookie using Lucero's Ascolano extra virgin olive oil, a particularly fruity oil. Everyone left the restaurant with a full belly and this wonderful recipe.

Rich Table's Olive Oil + Douglas Fir Cookies

• 200 grams Butter, room temperature
• 55 grams Lucero Ascolano Olive Oil
• 175 grams sugar
• 1 1/2 gram douglas fir powder (fir needles are dried and ground to a powder)
• 210 gram AP flour
• 70 gram corn starch
• 2 grams salt
• 1 whole lemon zested
• 1 egg yolk

Sift together the flour, corn starch and salt. Fit a kitchenaid with a paddle attachment and blend the butter and sugar on low speed. Drizzle in the olive oil- mix until everything just comes together. 

Add the fir and lemon zest. Add egg yolk and mix only until incorporated. 

Add dry ingredients and mix until dough just comes together, no more. 

Wrap dough in plastic wrap and let rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. 

Roll the dough out between sheets of parchment paper until 1/4" thick and cut into desired shapes. 

Move cookies onto an uncreased sheet pan and let chill 1 hour. 

Bake at 275 degrees F for 30 minutes until cookies are firm, but tender and light in color. 

Let cool slightly before moving to a cooling rack.

Give California olive oil a try.
-A

Mount Tam & Wild Mushrooms

The wonderful folks at Juniper Ridge extended an invitation for a weekend trip to Mount Tamalpais. There was talk of hiking and mushroom foraging, drinking and cabins.

Hall lead the way on our hike to the West Point Inn, moody fog made the forest look otherworldly. It was completely dark by the time we made it to the inn, my clothes soaked from sweat and the misty rain. But oh man, was that inn a sight for sore eyes.  A big roaring fire, hot spiked cider, and a killer clawfoot tub to soak in after a long hike. Also a great group of people to be with.

It was my first time mushroom foraging, and I can get into this. Like a treasure hunt, and so easy to find yourself climbing up a steep slope, digging through damp leaves, or crossing through a creek bed at the promise of a beautiful mushroom to eat.  We were fortunate to have a new variety to eat each night.

Chicken thighs braised in wine & herbs with 
Sautéed Mushrooms & Savoy Cabbage 
two servings

For this recipe, I used hedgehog mushrooms. Soft, delicate mushrooms are ideal for this, like a chanterelle. 

For the Chicken

• 4 chicken thighs
• flour
• salt & pepper
• 2 tbsp. butter
• dry white wine
• 5 sprigs of thyme
• 1 clove garlic, diced 
• 1 small shallot, diced

Pour about a 1/2 cup of flour on a plate. Season the chicken thighs with salt & pepper on both sides, then coat with flour on each side, tapping off any excess. Set aside the chicken. Heat a skillet, ideally cast iron, to medium high heat. Add the butter, and when foaming, place the chicken thighs skin side down- be sure not to crowd the pan, or else work in batches. After about 8 minutes, flip it to the other side, the skin should not stick to the pan when it is finished browning. Brown the other side for about 5 or 6 minutes, or until nice and golden. Remove the chicken from the pan for a moment, and add the garlic and shallot (and more butter if needed), sauté for a minute or two, then return the thighs to the pan- skin side up. Add 1 1/2 cup of white wine and the thyme (about half of the chicken should be submerged in the liquid), lower the heat to low and cook for 30-40 minutes. Check the chicken by making a small cut, the juice should run clear, not pink when done. 

For the Mushrooms

•  Roughly 2 cups hedgehog mushrooms
• 2 cups savoy cabbage, thinly sliced
• butter
• salt & pepper
• thyme
• pomegranate seeds

Clean the mushrooms first: I remove any dirt gentle with a dry, clean towel. Really stubborn dirt, a quick rinse. Do not soak in water- they will absorb the water, which won't let them sauté properly or take on any flavors of the dish. Heat a pan or skillet to medium heat. Add tbsp. butter, and when foaming, add the mushrooms. Gently stir the mushrooms for a minute or two to brown, then add the cabbage. Season with salt and pepper and a bit of fresh thyme leaves. Add another tbsp. of butter if it needs, stirring occasionally. Cook about 10-12 minutes total. 

Plate the mushrooms and cabbage, chicken thigh with a bit of the wine sauce, and garnish with pomegranate seeds. 

-A

Gospel Flat Farm & Tuscan Bean Soup

It's strange to hope for bad weather, but sometimes that's what is needed to justify a stack of books and magazines and a two-day long wood-burning fire. Taking the drive through the woods, the sunny coastal views disappeared in my rear window. The air was cooler, darker, fragrant from the damp pine needles. A quick stop at Gospel Flat Farm, a true Northern California roadside experience, and back to the house before dusk.

Tuscan Bean Soup
Adapted from the Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook
Serves 4

• Extra virgin olive oil
• 3 strips of thick bacon, chopped
• 1 large carrot, diced in 1/2" cubes
• 2 stalks of celery, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 small yellow onion, diced
• 3 medium tomatoes
• Two handfuls of kale
• 1 can of white cannellini beans, drained and rinsed or dried beans soaked overnight
• 1 quart chicken stock
• 1 bay leave
• 1 tbsp. fresh chopped thyme
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh sage
• Salt & Pepper
• day old bread, cut into 1" cubes
• Parmesan cheese (optional)

Start by prepping the vegetables. For the tomatoes, cut a shallow X on each- blanch in a pot of boiling water, then into an ice bath. Peel the tomatoes and dice. For the kale, cut the leaves off the stems. Coarsely chop into 2" pieces. 

Place a large pot or dutch oven over medium high heat. Add a splash of oil, then the bacon. Fry until fat renders- remove bacon to the side. Lower to medium heat-sweat the carrots, celery and onion for a minute or two. Add the garlic for another minute. Add in the tomatoes and kale and stir until the kale wilts a bit. Add the stock, herbs and return the bacon to the pot. Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the beans and cook another 20 minutes. 

Toss the bread cubes with a little oil and toast on a baking sheet for a few minutes, until golden. 

Ladle soup into a bowl and top with the croutons & freshly grated parmesan. 

-A

HH

Head on over to my friend Hollister's site to check out my recipe post for a Thanksgiving side dish.
While your there, soak up some inspiration. Visiting Hollister's blog, or meticulously curated design site,  is like a glimpse into her beautiful world.
Thanks HH!
-A

Joshua Tree Granola

It was decided: let's go to Joshua Tree tomorrow. 

I packed my bag- a couple books, a new pair of hiking boots, and decided to cook up a batch of homemade granola for the drive south. Spent a night in Bakersfield, then rode into Yucca Valley through back roads and two lane high ways. There is nothing in the world like that dry, warm desert air. 

Joshua Tree Granola

makes about 5 or 6 cups

• 2 cups old-fashioned oats
• handful or two of chopped raw pecans
• handful of slivered almonds
• 3/4 cup unsweetened coconut chips- small as possible
• pinch of cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup agave syrup
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• pinch of course salt
• golden raisins

Heat oven to 300 degrees. Mix all ingredients together except  raisins (or dried fruit) and salt. Make sure brown sugar, oil and agave syrup are thoroughly mixed and not in clumps. Spread on one baking sheet, sprinkle pinch of salt over the oat mix. Bake for 30-40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes so it bakes evenly. Remove from oven when its a golden brown/toasted color- will still be soft.  Allow to cool for 10 minutes to harden. Stir in raisins or other dried fruit.  Store in air tight containers and eat alone, with yogurt, as a cereal or on ice cream. 

The brown sugar and agave caramelize in the oven to the oats, ending up with a honey-sweet granola with a hint of salt. Terribly addictive. 

Get out there.
-A